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Exterior
New
fuel tank fuel gauge
All
new rigging wire (upsized to ¼” on mizzen) with swage fittings
aloft & Sta- Loks at deck
level (except headstay – re-used existing Norseman fittings)
Converted
split backstay to double backstays, one with SSB insulators
New
lifelines
Masthead
tri-color / anchor light, LED
Red (75% cuprous oxide) Pettit Trinidad antifouling paint
Wind
scoop
Spare
fuel jugs
Hurricane
lamp & mineral spirits
66
lb Manta claw anchor, 50’ 3/8" G4 galvanized chain, 200'
5/8" 3-strand nylon rode
Mooring
shock absorbers
Install
Furuno radar
EPIRB
Removed
old spinnaker pole deck mounts
Moved
Danforth anchor bracket and anchor from bow to stern pushpit
Removed
stern light bracket
Repositioned
primary winches further aft
Removed
cleat on starboard cockpit coaming
Serviced
(disassembled, cleaned and lubricated) both primary winches
Removed,
cleaned and lubricated secondary winches
Shaved
hatch boards to relieve jamming
Patched
inflatable dinghy
Replaced
spark plugs in outboard Installed fuel filter in outboard
Inspected
and re-folded all sails
Serviced
mainsail halyard winch
Designed
/ fabricated sheet guard for diesel heater chimney
Washed
all dirty lines
Removed
old name letters from transom with heat gun & cleaned left
over glue
Freed
up the stern ladder stand-offs using PB Blaster, installed rubber
tips
Measured
lifelines for replacement order
Replaced
outboard motor throttle cables
Rebuilt
outboard motor carburetor
Repaired
mid-ship companionway sliders
Rebuilt
holding tank manual overboard pump
Designed
and fabricated new handle for moveable hand pump
Re-bed
miscl. holes near dodger and cockpit
Serviced
2 more winches
Washed,
folded and stowed dinghy
Loosened
rigging and had both masts un-stepped by crane
Assembled
old wind generator to sell
Removed
starboard dorade box and silicone’d under there
Removed
rigging from un-stepped main and mizzen masts and measured for
replacements
Removed
all old lights and fixtures from both masts
Removed/sold
TV antenna & mounting bracket
Removed
propeller & pulled prop shaft
Cut
& beat out the old cutlass bearing
Scrubbed
& waxed topsides
Removed
most thru-hulls and super-serviced all of them
Cut
the number of thru-hulls in boat by half & hired Jerry Evans
to seal old holes with layered fiberglass
Cleaned,
sanded, taped and painted cove stripes and boot stripes
Cleaned
and sanded the prop shaft
Put
prop shaft back in
Painted
interior of thru-hull fiberglass patches that Jerry installed
Drilled
and epoxy-coated hole in rudder for emergency steering lines
Jacked
up the davits for the welder to beef up davit arms with flatbar
braces
Removed,
cleaned and silicone'd chainplate covers
Repaired
autopilot plug
Rocky
applied new name decals on the transom
Waxed
the transom and the new name
Pulled
old electrical wires from both masts and ran messengers
Cleaned
the VHF antenna connector
Installed
/ re-installed freshly serviced thru-hulls
Installed
heavy duty anchoring U-bolt in stemhead, w/massive ss backing
plate
Disassembled
Harken roller furler drum
Tapered
old headstay for installation of new headstay
Wet-sanded
boat bottom with coarse (black) 3M scrubbers
Sanded
and painted Jerry’s newly gel-coated patches
-
Ground back around strut base checking for bolts
Repaired
water-soaked hull spots: ground out, dried & rebuild
fiberglass
Repacked
rudderpost stuffing box
Installed
the new headstay in Harken extrusions & re-assembled
Mounted
new stern light bracket on mizzen masthead
Mounted
new tricolor bracket on main masthead
Attached
eye straps to main spreaders for flag halyards & lazy jack
lines
Filled
various mast holes with JB Weld
Installed
new spreader lights, one swivel mount & one fixed
New
spreader boots
Riveted
radar mount to mainmast
Bolted
custom wind generator mount on mizzen mast
Installed
new cutlass bearing
Had
propeller re-pitched & reconditioned, and reinstalled it on
the shaft
Installed
new shaft zinc
Installed
raw water intake strainers (engine and sea chest intakes)
Designed/fabricated/installed
removable air conditioner box over main salon
Cleaned
& oiled teak in cockpit area
Designed/fabricated
pedestal gearshift upgrade
Completely
rewired both masts, bundling wires in foam rubber tubes
Canvas:
Cockpit
cushions of closed cell foam & Sunbrella: (5) hatch screens,
(3) lee cloths. Sunbrella covers for primary sheet winches,
GPS, compass, scanner screen
Large
main boom Sunbrella awning/rain catcher
Enlarge
hole in mainmast for radome cable: 1-5/8” x 5/8”
Enlarge
hole in mizzen mast for 10g wind gen cable: 1-1/8” x ½”
Bond
new seacock (clean other bonds)
Mount:
2nd spreader light, steaming and stern lights
Pre-wire
steaming light & mizzen stern light w/ disconnect fittings
Attach
12g wire split to 10g spreader lights wire
Strip
shield off 6g wire 6” above mizzen mast base
Cut
new halyards
Install
new mizzen mast electrical wires
Deck plate over old hole in aft coaming
Design/fabricate
PVC hawse pipe for stern anchor
Wire
Air-X wind generator,
Remove
and lube masthead sheaves
Connect
all main mast electric wires
Battery-test
all mast lights while masts are still down
Epoxy-coat
step area inside mainmast's base
Ospho,
prime & paint mainmast step in bilge
Install
all new main and mizzen mast stays, shrouds & halyards
Fabricated
necessary tangs, toggles & link plates
Design/fabricate/install
custom, heavy-duty backstay fittings
Re-install
mizzen step plate
Re-step
both masts
Install
booms, etc
New
winch handle holster
Installed
flag halyard & lazy jack shroud cleats
Shorten
headstay & re-install
Adjust/set
all spreader angles
Mount
RadioLabs wi-fi antenna on shroud
Install
new opening portholes in shower & aft cabin
Fix
leaks in holding tank discharge pump
Nicopress
new main & mizzen topping lifts
Bed
fuel fill deck fitting cap rail area
Masthead:
triadic
Re-fill
compass fluid
Install
main-masthead windex
Clean
mizzen sheet and running backstay lines
Seize
on new davit lines
Splice
on new main sheet traveler lines
Install
rigging toggle extensions on main shrounds, etc
Tighten
roller forestay
Seize
eye/thimble in genoa halyard
Seize
eye/snap shackle in mizzen halyard
Bend
on sails
Wash
running backstays & mizzen sheet
Sailmaker:
Sunbrella covers on both genoas, re-furbish mainsail, replace
broken track car on mizzen. Also repaired kayak seat straps
Made
up custom lazy jacks
Extended
upper tang plates for backstays
Clean
up starboard cockpit locker, including wiring runs
Clean/paint
small mushroom anchor
Barbara:
mainsail & mizzen sail covers
Installed
awning backhaul block on mizzen mast
Build
workbench for new slip on the main pier
Clean,
Ospho & paint fuel tank top, mostly on starboard side
Replace/re-bed
fuel gauge viewing portlight
Install
bow pulpit port/std running light
Chain
Locker / Foredeck / Electric Windlass / Deck Washdown
¼”
aluminum plate x 38” x 18”
3/8”
high grade (untreated) exterior plywood, 24” x 32”
Deck
access plate, up to 12” OD
10
cc measuring syringes from pharmacy (MEK will erase lines; mark
w/tape!)
Plank
for running light
Fiberglass
roller (“bubble buster”)
(6)
1½” ss countersink
bolts, ¼ x 20
(2)
½” planks for divider: 38” x 16” and 26” x 16”
¼”
high grade (untreated) exterior plywood, 24” x 32” for deck
core
40’
¾” high-pressure water for washdown pump
¾”
40-50-mesh raw water strainer
¾”-to-garden-hose
thru-deck fitting for washdown pump
1¼”-thick
teak mounting pad, 12” x 9” (salvage from old windlass’
block)
1
can of 407 thickener
Gel
coat touchup kit
2nd
anchor chain deck pipe
7/16”
galvanized shackle for claw anchor
Job
Steps:
Remove/paint/sell
manual windlass:
Remove
chain/rode from chain locker & store
Set
new windlass up on deck for pondering. Check manual for shaft
length, etc, etc.
Cut
out old mounting block with sawzall (tie up so it won’t crash
down into locker!)
Remove
vent cowl vent & base
Trim
vent tube under cowl vent
Drill
pulpit & cap rail and run wire for new fwd running light
Connect
running light wires
Pull
old running lights & seal holes from inside with ‘glass
backing pad
Epoxy-seal
all exposed deck edges & old drill holes
Divide
chain locker using several removable planks held in place with
side blocks
Install
PVC wire & water hose conduits into chain locker
Install
wire running boards in upper chain locker
Install
washdown pump & wiring
Install
windlass control box & wiring
Run
wires for windlass, from battery to motor location.
Plug
upper locker overboard drain hole & drill drain hole down into
chain locker
Check
angle of windlass so 2nd anchor chain clears deck pipe as it leads
to the gypsy
Seal
all raw wood shelf edges w/resin
Epoxy-seal
edges of upper shelf drain hole
Install
washdown deck fitting
Washdown
pump plumbing
Cut
mahogany slab for windlass mounting pad
Cut
back deck lip only where aluminum plate will be (18” section,
both sides)
Sand/clean
underside of deck for aluminum plank
Plug
chain locker bottom drain hole
Epoxy/glass
bottom of chain locker for perfect drainage
Drill
port/starboard drain holes
Glass-over
/ fill-in old cowl vent hole & water deck fill hole
Grind
remaining lip corners to bare glass
Grind
out 2” from edge all around using 24-grit disc, but beveled
gradually up to existing deck level
Seal
exposed balsa core with epoxy
Cut/fit/bend
aluminum plate
Camber
aluminum plate (run over it with the truck!)
Rough
up upward side of plate
Drill
bolt holes in plate
Secure
(tie-wrap) deckwash pump hose under V-berth edge
Run
deckwash pump hose thru PVC guard pipe and thru the bilge to the
seachest
Install
windlass breaker switch
Seal
upper corners of main bulkhead against water intrusion
Cut
3/16” plywood to fit over entire hole
Clamp
plywood to plate’s camber & ‘glass to hold it
Pre-drill
oversize bolt holes in deck and fill with epoxy
Clean/acetone
underside of deck for aluminum plate
Epoxy
& bolt aluminum plate up under deck with resin thickened with 404
(thru-bolt with countersunk bolts)
Epoxy-tab
PVC water hose shield under V-berth
Wrench-tighten
plate thru-bolts when epoxy has set
Trim
plywood filler piece edges back ¼” all around for goop
Bevel bottom edge slightly for curve of lip
Plywood
filler piece fiberglass lay-up schedule:
-
Bottom of plywood: 1 layer mat + 2nd
layer mat on sections beyond aluminum plate
-
Top of plywood: mat, mat, roving, mat, roving, mat, mat (7 layers
= ¼”)
(leave
2” all around edges for final taping to deck, only 1 layer mat
to the edge)
Final
acetone wipe-down
Coat
aluminum surface & lip with 404-thickened resin and set panel
in place w/ weights
Goop
over (seal) countersink bolt heads
Run
fan when grinding fiberglass, and put on baby powder beforehand!
Mark
deck all around to show where windlass will finally mount when
deck is sealed!
Glass
all around panel with 4 strips of mat, feathering out on main deck
bevel
Final
panel build-up: mat, roving, mat, mat
Finish
& pre-drill mounting pad for windlass
Coat
mounting pad’s chain deck pipe wall with 404-thickened epoxy
Over-drill
mounting pad bolt & sensor holes, fill with epoxy, and
re-drill
Final
foredeck fairings with resin thickened with WS 407, using
fairing stick & long 2x4 sanding block
Last
foredeck patch overcoat with clear epoxy
Scuff-sand
and paint foredeck patch with 2 coats white enamel paint
Sand
& re-drill bolt & sensor holes of windlass mounting pad,
try on for size
Epoxy
coat windlass mounting pad
Run
deckwash pump power (red) wire to nav station panel
Grind
away old non-skid around all new holes
Drill/cut
all windlass thru-deck holes & epoxy inside edges
-
Mount windlass 2 ½” to port of centerline & 28” back from
the forward non-skid line
-
Drive shaft is only 1¼” – needs 1½” hole
Sand
& paint windlass mounting pad (over the epoxy), 2 coats min.
on sides
Bed
windlass mounting pad with Rope Caulk & mount windlass
Install
windlass foot switches, etc.
Attach
motor, hook up wires, etc
Final
trim/fit divider boards
Cut
hole & install second anchor deck pipe
Rope-to-chain
splices on both anchor rodes
Install
2nd anchor rode & chain & shackle to claw anchor
Install
deck cleat to port of windlass for port anchor chain
Put
stoppers on anchor rode bitter ends in chain locker, port &
starboard
Replace/re-mount
cockpit speakers
Canvas
Re-attach port
pull strap
Bimini top
Dodger/bimini
connector piece
Tape
off foredeck for non-skid painting
Install
dodger battens
Renee
- Compound/wax all smooth gelcoat surfaces - cockpit, deck
& coachhouse = 17 hrs.
Clean
outboard carburetor & spark plugs
Adjust
(tighten) bimini top
Haul-Out
Make bucket porta-potty
Wash hull with Sno-Bol
Outboard motor – fix tilt!
Pack dinghy to exchange
Check/mark helm center spoke
Record whether prop shaft is offset for pulling past skeg &
rudder & which side
Install new thru-hull for toilet direct overboard discharge &
connect plumbing
Fill in old running lights socket holes
Fill in erroneous anchor locker drain hole with epoxy, port side
forward
Clamshell covers for chain locker drain port/starboard holes
Bill - Water-blast bottom
Clean prop shaft & strut
Scrape all loose paint off with putty knife
Open the few water blisters on forward port waterline
Sand bottom & fair where paint flaked off
Tape off & sand down old boot stripe
Send in prop for 11” pitch
Rough up smooth bottom surfaces with 40-grit
Open & acetone-dry little blisters on forward port waterline
Epoxy-fill little blisters on forward port waterline
Remount propeller, paint it and shaft with West epoxy
Install (2) new shaft zincs and stow (4) spares
Light-sand epoxy on prop & shaft, then one coat Trinidad
bottom paint
Primer coat on old, sealed running light sockets
Mount genoa halyard wire winch
Make/install cover plate for stem coaming access hole
Paint over old running light sockets & touch-up cove stripe
Install garboard drain plug in the bilge sump, epoxy-line the hole inside, epoxy over
flange outside
Morgan - compound/buff
& wax hull
Wayne/Jim – make davit lifting strap for inflatable dink’s
forward end
Cut & hinge old swim ladder
Cover garboard drain plughole with a wasp screen
Cover all deck scuppers with screens
Make/install PVC scoop/cover for holding tank vent lines
Windvane:
Mount windvane rudder
Hang new inflatable in davits
Shorten mizzen topping lift wire
Set mizzen boom onto bimini frame for
airvane clearance measuring purposes
Wet-sand windvane rudder & trim tab from waterline down,
60-grit
Cut & shape airvane mounting plank to fit new, welded railing
plate
Epoxy & paint cut edge of mounting plate
Cut airvane mast down to 25”
Harry:
- Shift davits lift points 6” higher and 6” farther aft
- Airvane mount platform, 6” (available!) x 12” x ¼” ss
plate welded to bottom edge of stern rail tube (with strut
vertical down to deck/coaming ??)
- Swim Ladder: weld on all 4 fittings, seal all tube ends, add
stop bar across so flip-down stops short and angles outward
slightly
Thru-bolt airvane ss plate strut’s base plate
Drill (over-drill, fill & re-drill) airvane mounting platform
to match mounting plate
Re-paint airvane mounting platform
Charlie: Fill in/gelcoat old swim ladder holes
Re-mount swim ladder to port
Install airvane assembly & hook up to rudder trimtab
Cut/file airvane mount bolt ends
Make backing plates for Coat’s grab rails
Mount 2 grab-holds/steps above swim ladder to complete the
boarding set up
Trim off bolt ends inside lazarette
Make 8” x 32” fuel jug platforms for rails, ¾” port, 3/8”
starboard
Provisions
Cole - Paint outboard motor cover dark green
Renee – Paint dinghy white
Orange paint highlights & RI reg. numbers on dinghy
Photo finished drain plug
Bottom Paint
- Paint prop & shaft with West epoxy, then Petit Trinidad
antifouling
- Tape, sand & wipe down old boot stripe top line
- Re-paint boot stripe using primer first, but a thinner line,
i.e., raise the waterline 1”
- Wipe down windvane rudder/trip-tab with acetone, then 1st coat
Petit Trinidad
- Petit Trinidad on all bare spots
- Rinse bottom, wash keel below galley sink drain!
- Do first coat
- Add tetracycline only to last 2 coats of bottom paint
- Insert garboard drain plug w/Loctite, a big wrench & bottom
paint over it
- Move all jack stands & sand/paint those spots
Cole:
Friday:
8:00-12:00 = 4
1:00-4:30 =
3.5
Paid $140
Sat:
7:00-12:00 = 5
1:00-2:30 = 1.5 Paid $130
Sunday:
8:00-12:00 = 4
2:00-4:00
= 2
Mon: 9:00-12:00
= 3
Tues: 8:30-11:30
= 3 Paid $240
Final tap & tighten shaft zincs
Make/stow 2”x 6”x 6’ fender board
Support boards for fuel jugs on cap rails
Decals on outboard
Pre-Launch
Dinghy floorboards – epoxy edges to seal & prime, paint
white
Top off propane tanks
Top off fuel jugs, including gasoline
Move dock box stuff aboard
Get the vice & owl off the workbench.
Paint underside of keel
Renee:
owes
me $70
Previously worked 4.75 hours
owes me $22.50
Monday:
9:30-12:30 = 3
Tuesday:
9:30-12:30 = 3
1:10-2:10 =
1
Wednesday:
8:00-9:00 =
1
1:00-2:00 =
1 Paid $67.50
Thursday:
11:00-11:30 = 0.5
Friday
7:00-??
= 4
Saturday:
8:00-9:15 =
1.25
1:45-2:30 =
.75 Paid $65.00
Tuesday:
8:30-10:30 = 2
Paid $20
Wednesday:
8:30-9:30 =
1
Friday: 8:30-11:15
= 2.75
Saturday:
9:00-11:00 = 2
Paid $60 + $40
tip = $100
Put tri-color aloft
Wayne - weather cloth, reversible
Move
Autohelm 3000 motor aft ¼ to 5/16”
~~
After Green Cove Springs ~~
Re-mount
shroud cleats
Plug
bike tubes
Make
up lock cables for dinghy & outboard
Fix
leak in deckwash pump
Shift
wi-fi antenna inside shroud & tape top
Shackle
an anchor chain pennant line onto stem eyebolt for that purpose
Replace
steering wheel shaft retainer spring clip with slightly larger
size
Final
outboard motor repairs
Spray
graphite on mainsail mast track
Anti-fouling
paint on inflatable dinghy
Canvas
Shop:
- Replace broken snaps on cockpit shade panel and filler piece
-
Patch/protect chafed areas along after edge of boom awning and
forward end of mainsail cover
Remove/re-bed/remount
forward starboard boarding gate stanchion
Staysail
stay and halyard rig
Service & mount staysail halyard winch
Mount
staysail sheet cleats on port & starboard cockpit combings
Canvas
Shop:
- Re-stitch & small-patch entire bimini
- Replace broken snaps as needed
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Interior
New
Yanmar 54 HP diesel engine, installed
Twin
Racor fuel filters
Rebuilt
engine bed & mounts
Engine
gauges, not idiot lights, in cockpit
Groco
raw water filter –cleaned, re-mounted, new pipe fittings &
hoses
Ship’s
bell
New West Marine AGM deep cycle batteries: (5) Group 31 / 105 ah
house bank, (2)
Group 27
/ 92 ah starter and windlass
Rechargeable
D-cell batteries and charger
Installed
water filter under sink (*#%!!!)
Cut
holes above water tanks with the jigsaw
Disassembled
and cleaned diesel heater parts
Installed
carbon monoxide detector
Fabricated
a sleeve for the broken diesel heater control knob
Hinged
engine box cover
Disassembled
and inspected diesel heater filter
Installed
high seas hatch board barrel bolts
Installed
companionway hatch intruder barrel bolt
Painted
portions of interior wood and all the mustard-colored Formica
off-white
Built
a mounting system for the bin under the companionway
Installed
barrel bolt on hinged engine box
Cleaned
and unclogged diesel heater fuel system
Fabricated
hatch board stowage system
Marine-texed
holes in aft cabin
Divided
starboard wing of salon table
Removed
shower stall porthole
Attached
wood hinge mounting blocks to starboard wing of salon table with
5200 and installed locking wing hinges
Designed/fabricated
house bank battery compartment under captain’s bunk
Scrubbed
cabin overhead with comet cleanser
Removed
bilge blower ducts, vents & fan
Removed
transmission, had it rebuilt, and re-installed it.
Cleaned
the hatch glass
Design/fabricate/install
many plumbing upgrades
New,
HD hose for shower
Repair
shower nozzle (stop leaking)
Design/fabricate sea chest
Design/fabricate extensive
re-plumbing, including PVC manifolds for several thru-hulls
Canvas:
V-berth
cushions & seat cushion slip covers
Main
Salon new high-density foam settee cushions, back cushions just
re-covered
Aft
cabin headboard re-covered
Inflatable
kayak as second tender
Clean/dry
water tanks
Repair drawer support at workbench
New
fire extinguishers
Install
TV flat screen on hinge
Adjust
AirX internal regulator for 14.6v
Rewire
& remount electric bilge pump
Run
radar and windlass battery cables
Clean
sump & adjacent bilges
Re-route
refrigeration unit power wires
Change
freshwater filter elements
Crimp battery some of the cable lugs
Paint
bilge sump
Manifold
for electric bilge pump,
watermaker and head sink discharges
Re-plumb
electric bilge pump
Frame
floorboard hatch under galley sink
Non-skid
strips on salon c-way stairs
Mount
barometer/clock set
Nav
station flexible stalk halogen chart light
Bilge
pump & high-water alarms
Tack
hatch screen Velcro
Adjust
computer table
Run
12-volts to woofer
Crimp battery cable lugs:
Red
12’ x 6g charger cable, (1) 3/8 dia.
Red 6g
to breaker, 5/16 dia.
Black 6g to engine ground, 5/16 dia.
Red & Black 6g at
Bank #3, 3/8 + 5/16 dia.
Attach all Bank #3
cables
New florescent light in
galley
Secure
all fore/aft wires under cabin sole
Install
Shaft-Lok
Mount
& wire up radar display
Remount
& wire up Loran display
Shower
pan electric sump system
Shower sump pump inline filter
Run/secure
deck washdown feed hose & pos. power wire
Remake
seawater intake manifold
Plumbing
Revamp
Identify
& label water heater manifold hose destinations
Disconnect/remove
toilet and forepeak sink hoses
Reconfigure
water heater manifold
Remove
holding tank, flush clean, take to welder to add ports as per
re-design
Replace
all water tank discharge hoses – 5/8” ID, 42’ total
Secure
deck washdown feed hose & all loose wires beneath cabin sole.
Clean up & secure everything else under there and remove
useless crap.
Remove
VacuFlush toilet & system components (accumulator tank,
electric pump, etc)
Replace
water heater main feed hose
Wedge/shore
up cabin sole where it dips aft and to port of the mast.
Install
inline T’s & short, plugged hoses for draining water tanks
into bilge sump
Install
wicks to make keel-top bilge drain aft
Remove
old holding tank vent & deck pumpout hoses
Secure/hang
wire runs starboard of sump area
Holding
Tank
Pull
out tank & flush clean
Welder:
add new
threaded entry to upper aft starboard side
replace
existing single vent hose nipple w/two ¾” FIP for two ¾”
hose barbs
Plug
old fwd entry hole
Install
1½”nylon hose barb in new entry port
Install
(2) ¾” nylon hose barbs for ventilation hoses
Re-install
holding tank with re-conditioned Y-valve
Install
(2) new ¾” vent hose topsides fittings
Install
(2) new ¾” Series 148 Vinyl vent hoses (13’ & 14’)
= 30’ x ¾” ID
New
1½” ID S148 Vinyl hose for deck pump-out overboard pump-out,
toilet to holding tank & toilet overboard
Install
all new hoses with no low spots where sewage can stand
Design/fabricate/install
seawater intake manifold & mounting block with inline filter
for deckwash pump
Rebuild
Perko raw water strainer for use with seawater manifold
Design/fabricate/install
bilge mounting pad for manifold’s Perko raw water strainer
Install
New Toilet on ¾” starboard pad
All
new plumbing, PVC & hose
Anti-siphon
loop mounted above/outboard of toilet for seawater intake
Y-Valve
for toilet discharge – under sole near seawater manifold
Open
up dead space outboard of shower Cut opening to dead space
outboard of shower & install access hatch
Refresh,
re-mount shower faucet
New
hose clamp on shore water connection inside port cockpit locker,
w/pipe dope
Install
Heart power inverter
Build
custom nav station shelf for sextant
Grind
off protruding screws in aft bins under V-berth
Wire
inverter to house AC system
Cut/install
hose to rinse bilge sump
Replaced
original West Marine AGM deep cycle batteries with new: (5) Group
31 / 105 ah + (2) Group 27 /
92 ah
Compartmentalize
salon electrical locker
Installed
PowerSurvivor 12V watermaker
Install
(3) bunk lee cloths / tie points
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